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This Q&A (Questions&Answers) is made by people from the alt.autos.volvo newsgroup and brickboard.com. If you recognize something you wrote and you feel offended, mail me and I'll remove it or I'll put your name under it. Sometimes I change a sentence but I never change the content.
(Engine part 1) Questions:
Main Q&A
  1. I've got a 1998 340 GL 1.4 ( B14 engine ) with 138 000 miles on the clock. I've also got a knackered set of big end shells, which have been replaced. The main reason for their being in this state is the disintegration of the oil pump pressure release valve spring. My local Volvo agents say that this item is not available on its own, and tried to sell me a complete oil pump for £150. This seems a bit over the top when what I need is a £1 spring. Does anyone know a source for these ? Failing that, does anyone know the Renault part number for the spring , it being a Renault engine?


  2. I currenlty have a 340 1.7, I previously had a 1.4l which dropped its prop shaft after 145k miles. I also know of other people that have lost props on 1.4's.
    What is the average life of the bearings and is there any difference between the engine sizes in the 300 range and their props?
    Finally how much and where can I get the bearings?


  3. I came home from vacation, and my Volvo would not start. Finally the car started by towing. My engine runs only with full choke, but stalls when I touch the trottle. I suspect the carburettor (Solex 28-34) and the vacuum tube...


  4. I own a 1984 340dl special edition. The car has 68000 miles on the clock. I am wondering is there any way of getting more acceleration out of the b14 lump without thrashing the engine completely ?


  5. When converting to unleaded petrol do I earth the white or orange wire from the electronic ignition, because I have heard different things from different people.


  6. (About a 340 1.4) I feel the car is underpowered.


  7. Anyone have any info on 360 turbos ? I have a 360GLT which I am restoring and which I would like to fit a turbo engine to.


  8. Does anyone know if a Volvo 360 (2 litre carburated engine, 92 hp, 1983, 346000 km on engine) runs on oxygenated fuels (e.g. 10 % ethanol/gasoline mixture) for a longer period of time without problems ? Normally I run it on 98 RON super unleaded fuel (That's 92 octane in the US I believe)


  9. Sometimes, the red exclamation mark (!) on my dash lights up if I go to 5000 rpm very fast (and esp. when my motor is not warm ready) - what does that mean ? Is it bad to go above a certain rpm ? My car is a '83 360 GLS.


  10. I have a volvo 340dl it keeps cutting out on exceleration making the car feel like there no petrol goin in the carb and it misfire like mad if i stop turn engine off wait a few mins it goes away.


  11. Can I run my 340GL 1.4 on 2star unleaded without doing any damage?


  12. I have a question which i would to ask you. My english isn't so good but i'll do my best. I have a volvo 340 hatchback 2doors.It has a B14 engine and it's automatic(variomatic).I want to make it faster.(need for speed)Here are the questions:
    • If i use a B200 engine what would be needed to from the donor car?
    • I was thinking on a 2.3 liter engine but with a carb. not fuel injection.The engine swap i think would be much easier i think.And which 2.3 liter engine would you recommend? I think the 240 model has such an engine.Simpel without all that electronic crab.How much HP can i aspect from such an engine??
    • Do you know a volvo tuner where i can get some performance engine parts.


  13. Car involved 85 340GLE 1.7. over the last few weeks starting and running this car was a nightmare!!! poor running and performance was traced to a worn carbon brush in the distributer cap (changed)and then lumpy tick over was sorted by securing the various pipes off the carb. car was fully road tested OK 2 days ago, unused yesterday. This morning started like a dream despite the cold night, and warmed up for 5 mins on the drive, dropped choke to approx 1/4 then engine cut as the clutch came up. After this would not start either off ignition or rolling down hill. No sign of any life in ignition and a few backfires through the carb. Eventualy abandoned car at bottom of hill. Returning from work and finding an iced windscreen the engine turned and fired into life first attempt!! car recovered back to house. Any ideas on the sudden death??? looking back this problem may have been with us for some time and only sorting out the other problems has brought it to light.


  14. My 340 1.7 (1989 model) appears to be suffering from an annoying occasional fuel problem which shows itself as poor idling (especially after a sudden slow down in traffic) and poor hot starting (always accompanied by a good belch of black smoke). Starting from cold and running on a throttle above idle it is fine. The carb is a genuine Volvo replacement fitted within the last 2000 miles and has been set up by the main agent. As the fault appears to be an excess of fuel I suspect the fuel pressure (assuming the carb is OK). On the front valence the fuel pipes from the pump pass through a black object which the Haynes manual describes as a fuel filter, however I think that it is actually a pressure regulator with outlet to the carb and a return to the tank. There is a separate in-line filter fitted in the supply to the pump. Can anyone confirm this and advise whether this may cause my problems. Any other things to check?


  15. Does anybody know how to replace a starter motor for a 1987 Volvo 340?




Answers:
    • These engines rarely do over 100K, not because they are not capable, but poor maintainance and rust. At any rate 138K is pretty good for the 1.4.

      Why not find a low milage unit in a scrap yard and use the oil pump from it. I'm sure the spring would be fine. Up

    • The problem with using a second hand spring is you can never quite be sure..... it might itself have been a secondhand replacement.. doesn't bear thinking about, given the grief in getting at it. I've managed to source a new spring in the UK for £4, including post and packaging! it 's coming from Island Volvo Estates, near Colchester, 01206 385488 138K Pah, it's got to last a sight longer than that, at least until I stop paying maintenance... Up


  2. To my knowledge theres is nothing wrong with the bearing in the propshaft. Especially when there isn't any. There are bearings in the clutch shaft housing and the gearbox, BTW, the 340 drive shaft is nothing like the one on a 360, the gearbox is not hard connected to the engine via a torque tube.

    What dropping one means I can't imagine.

    Here's my guesses:
    1. The clamps are over-tightened during clutch changes or other work involving drive shaft removal. This causes weakening of the bolts or damaged threads leading to a weak clamping force, the shaft then slips on the gearbox or clutch chaft splines wrecking it unrecoverably. This is invarably caused by mechanics who think that the Engineer put down a torque specification for these bolts for his own amusement.
    2. The half-shafts (the ones going to the wheels) or CV joints may have fallen apart again caused by reassembly without some of the balls, not very likely.
    3. The rubber / plastic compliance bushing has come loose at the end of the aluminium tube. This is caused by hammering the shaft off rather than persuading it off.

    Generally the drive on 340 and 360 is pretty bomb proof except for the ham-fisted mechanic. I heard the odd 360 bearing or joint go, but I've fully tested several cars (340 and 360) and the only thing I ever broke was a 1980 340 differential, 1982 cars had an uprated unit as used in the 360s.

    The only solution to the 340 drive shaft failure is usually just replacement. Incidently I still have the one from my 340 which I scrapped recently. But not much use unless you're in N.Ireland, should be possible to get one in a scrap yard in most countries.

    I should have clarified that 340 use one type of drive shaft with no bearings, its a large diameter aluminium tube (quite rigid). 340 1.4 and 1.7 are the same in this respect. Engine and gearbox are independantly mounted. Connection is by a circular clamp on a split splined coupling (say that without spiting). If the drive shaft falls off (or drops) its not fitted in the correct position, what usually happens is it just turns and you get no drive. Visit a scrap yard for a replacement drive shaft and clamps (new clamps are not very expensive, check the threads on the replacement one before fitting, of the shaft slips again you'll need another shaft).

    360's have a narrow solid shaft running inside a torque tube which connects the gearbox and engine directly (so no twisting). Bearings exist at 2 or 3 points down the shaft, connection is by splined sleeve at either end. Sleeves and bearing can sometimes wear out. Up


    • How does the engine run when it starts on full choke ?
      Does it run with the accelerator depressed and the choke in ?

      It could be the idle cut off - check the relay clicks with the engine not running but ignition on by pulling off the spade connection.

      It could also be an ignition problem, check for a strong spark by usual methods. Coils can get dirty behind the coil, also oil mist can occur in the distributor cap from a poor cam oil seal (a car I know has this problem but need a new cam shaft to seal properly). Stalling with the throttle is quite a strong indication of a poor ignition spark.

      On the carb side, they can get sticky on the front facing side with alot of dirt etc. Take off the air filter housing and check all levers are in the home position then start. While its off check the flow of fuel into the carb,..is it well atomised or is it intermittent or drippy.

      If you suspect the vacuum tube (which one?), then block it so the carb is not gettting any extra air, especially the tube on the bottom of the carb.
      The big one which comes out under the air filter housing does not matter. Up
    • >How does the engine run when it starts on full choke ?

      Well... I guess the engine has about 3-4000 rpm (at least) and lot of firecracker sounds can be heard - this produces black smoke from the exhaust.

      >Does it run with the accelerator depressed and the choke in ?

      Nope.

      >If you suspect the vacuum tube (which one?), then block it so the carb is
      >not gettting any extra air, especially the tube on the bottom of the carb.

      OK - here we go; The vacuum tube I suspect is the tube on the bottom of the carb - on the "engine" side of the carb.
      The brass pipe junction between the carb and the tube has popped out of the carb (!)
      This piece of pipe is circular in one end & square in the other and abt. 2-3 inches long.

      Guess the carb get "false" air in here, and I will try to block it and try... Up
    • > Guess the carb get "false" air in here, and I will try to block it and try...

      Yes that quite likely to be the problem, although I would not have expected it to be so severe. On my first 1.4 340 I had a similar problem when I inadvertently removed the air restriction (a seperate part) in the pipe in this area but, it was only causing lumpy tick over and unsmooth tick over. It was still conected to the breather system so that probably helped minimise the effect. Up
    • If I may bring something over from the motorcycle world... How long was your vacation? When bikes are stored, we stabilize the fuel to prevent varnish formation in the carb(s). This stuff can clog the small passages in the carb (jets) and cause all kinds of running/drivability problems. Up


  4. No leave it alone, its only a wee engine, not much tuning potential. But use good service items, 4 prong plugs, high performance oil, new air filter etc. Maybe replace the exhaust with a standard straight through one, give a bit of power but sounds good mainly.

    If you want power get a 360, very cheap now and very bomb proof, with tuning potential. Up


  5. No sure about this one, but if you want power stick with leaded or super unleaded (same octane rating). I have a 87 360 GLT unleaded car, and it slower than the girlfriends 85 360 GLS at all except over 4500 rpm.

    Sounds like your giving this car a hard time, and I'll guess you're quite young. I wasn't much different when I started driving in my mums 340 around 12 years ago. 340s can't really take it, but 360s can, except the front suspension needs an overhaul every so often. Using the engine from the 240 they are pretty much the most reliable car on the road and quick with it. GBP500 can buy a good carb 360, injected ones tend to be in bad condition or very expensive. and the carb ones are cheap to insure. Up


  6. True, I felt that too, 1.7 is a much better small engine size, but they are very unreliable, I couldn't recommend a 360 more, their only problem is they are petrol hungry, condsider that for when the 340 dies at around 120K. My partner had an 84 3 door 340GL, when I drove it to work for a week I averaged 47MPG (motorway mostly) ! Up


  7. Before you start work on this I would check out the gearbox and drive-shaft (I believe it's a torque-tube) to see if they can handle the power output of the new engine.

    I'm not sure what type of gearbox was used on the 360 and if any of the existing 200/700 gearboxes could be adapted to fit. The transaxle setup might complicate things.

    I think the clutch from a 360GLT should be OK power-wise, but it may be a good idea to check it as well.

    If the B21/23/230FT are roughly the same size as the B19A or B200E used in the 360 (probably are) then that should be OK. You will need to do custom exhaust piping and perhaps it's a squeeze for the turbo.

    I don't know if there will be enough space to do an intercooler setup.. Perhaps an air-scoop on the hood.

    You will need new brakes though! They will be too small (front) or too risky (rear drums) to keep using. The rear may need some custom brake work to convert it from drum to disc. Up


  8. Yes- probably... check your owner's manual just to make sure. It should have a note that says 10% ethanol is fine. Make sure you don't put _methanol_ in there (it''ll corrode rubber seals within your fuel system). Having said that, I can't remember ever finding a warning against _ethanol_, nor remember ever finding a gas station that sells _methanol_ (not even M85 yet). Up


  9. Over-revving a cold engine doesn't do it a lot of good. Even when the engine is warm you should keep 'redlining' (the region of the rev counter shown in red) to an absolute minimum.
    The exclamation mark however is the brake fluid indicator: you may have a loose connection at the brake fluid sensor on top of the reservoir, and the vibrations at 5000 rpm may be affecting it. Up


  10. Can't think why it would go away after a few mins, but power application problems are usually due to ignition / HT shorting etc. Check all the leads, dist cap, coil etc for damp. Look at the engine while running in pitch black dark if you can, allow you eye to get accustomed to the dark. Even if the engine is running ok, you can see if the spark is leaking.

    By cutting out I assume you mean the engine stops, rather than no power. If its just missing, it can be caused by the cold air, condensing moisture on the carb (somethimes caused carb icing). It usually happens in the winter on the motorway and is caused by the preheater hose (the tube that brings hot air heated by the exhaust manifold in the air filter) being damaged or missing, or even a faulty air thermostat which diverts the air from the exhaust in the cold. If you have a very old car (pre 1980) it might have a lever on the air filter with markings for summer and winter, make sure its set to winter.

    I have also assumed its a 1.4L since you say DL, the 1.7L only came in GL form. They have other problems with those symptoms.
    Up


  11. Depends on the year, but all you need to do is retard the ignition. Unfortunately I don't know how to do this in the '1984 on' computerised ignition models, some plug or wire shorting method I think.

    You can run it on super plus (high octane unleaded) or LRP without any changes. Up


  12. This is a bad idea. What you are talking about is a 360, why don't you just buy one of those, very cheap now.

    You would have to change everything.

    The auto drive from the 340 would not withstand the B200 (eg 115bhp or so from a 360 GLT) and would break, so you need to convert to manual (more fun anyway) for which you need the driveshaft and torque tube , gearbox from a 360, + exhaust etc. Plus the spare wheel won't fit in the engine anymore and is moved to the 340 fuel tank location, needing 360 fuel tank aswell. Never mind the heavier engine, spring rates etc.

    So if you really want a custom 300 series how about a 360 with a 740/940 turbo engine, all you need to worry about is the turbo and intercooler exhaust pipe, and a good specialist shop should be able to make one.

    As for electronic crap, you are better off with it, you just need to take all the matching management bits (ignition unit, injection controller). Saves timing lights, points and poor startiing etc, etc. only engines older than about 15 years have points, and older than 8~9 years for carbs, go with injection its good (doesn't die when driving round hard corners).

    360s are alot quicker than 340s, but not blistering. 115bhp is not amazing in a car that weight (the B200 is alot heavier than the B14) what is blistering is 165~180bhp available in a B200 turbo.... and there is tuning potential (se the Swedish bricks web site, can't remember the address) for up to 400 bhp if you're really mad.

    An engine change is a big job, and fraugt with hundreds of little detail problems, like how do mount the exhaust or how do you connect the clutch cable, accelerator etc. It better to get bits from different models that bolt together with any special custom parts.

    I can't understand why you didn't think about a 360, do you not know they exist? I don't mean to offend but, if you havn't even thought that far then I doubt you are capable of the job. Try doing your own servicing first then when you know how to keep the car in good tune, then consider modifications and start with the right car, most definately not a 340 when 360s are available. Up


  13. Sounds very like the dreaded rear oil seal leak. Engine dies on application of power, backfire on starting attemps?--ignition problem usually.

    A very light oil mist leaks from the rear cam oil seal and coats the inside of the distributor cap. To check: When the car won't run right or start take off the distributor cap and run your finger round the inside then taste it. If it tastes bad then its oil, (water should be sweet due to the antifreeze).

    I have had a problem in an 86 GL 1.7 for about 1 year, the car was not being driven anyway, but it took me that long to fix it, and actually I think I've finally got it (just this Sunday). The oil seal had worn a lip in the camshaft and wouldn't seal 100% (needed for this distributor cap design), even a new seal only improved but not eliminated.

    The solution,lubribate the cam with fresh oil, install the new seal flush with the head surface, then knock it in a few mm, then install the plastic distributor insulator and knock that gently until the seal is far enough in for the insulator to sit on the surface of the head. This allows the seal so sit in a new position with fresh even metal to seal against, and is a better alternative to buying a new camshaft.

    BTW to remove the seal undo the end bearing cap and lift it out, put the cap back on and install the seal by tapping with a large socket over the cam end, then use it round the edge to achieve it flush with the surface. Than manual says flush with the surface, but thats impossible due to the insulator as it sits in the hole slightly, I think the problem was caused due to some other head work during which the seal was disturbed, and not refitted in exactly the same position but further in.

    These engines are very sensitive to anything less than perfect, so make sure all the leads, cap, rotor arm, insulator, coil are all new or at least clean. Up


  14. > My 340 1.7 (1989 model) appears to be suffering from an annoying occasional fuel problem which shows itself as poor idling (especially after a sudden slow down in traffic)

    Possibly unrelated, common for these cars, engine rattles from side to side?

    > and poor hot starting (always accompanied by a good belch of black smoke).

    Hmm, seems like too much petrol.

    > Starting from cold and running on a throttle above idle it is fine. The carb is a genuine Volvo replacement fitted within the last 2000 miles and has been set up by the main agent. As the fault appears to be an excess of fuel I suspect the fuel pressure

    I would tend to doubt it (but never assume anything), the carb is responsible for its own fuel and should be independant of fuel pressure, but why some carb engines have pressure regulators I don't know.

    > (assuming the carb is OK). On the front valence the fuel pipes from the pump pass through a black object which the Haynes manual describes as a fuel filter, however I think that it is actually a pressure regulator with outlet to the carb and a return to the tank. There is a separate in-line filter fitted in the supply to the pump. Can anyone confirm this and advise whether this may cause my problems. Any other things to check?

    Could it be bad ignition, are all the components newish and clean? Another thing which it could be is the breather pipes. Make sure there is not any extra air getting in the engine side of the carb, especially the small bore pipe which goes in under the car, if this falls out it reduces the air flow over the jets and subsequent atomisation of the fuel. Block it for a while if necessary to eliminate it. Up


  15. Disconnect the battery negative connection then:

    1.4 engine:
    1. unscrew and remove the starter bracket mounting bolt on the block
    2. unscrew and remove the starter motor bolts on the clutch housing
    3. lift the starter motor from the clutch housing and detach the supply wires
    4. when refitting, if difficulty experienced in locating the upper mounting bolt, bend wire around the bolt head, insert it in the hole, then pull the wire free. Always tighten the main mounting bolts before the bracket bolt

    1.7 engine:
    1. disconnect the wiring from the starter motor
    2. unscrew the mounting bolts and withdraw the starter motor from the engine

    (from Haynes manual)
    (usually correct but some intermediate steps may be omitted, e.g. on a 360 B200E engine you need to remove the oil dipstick tube to remove the starter motor, which Haynes neglects to mention).

    Its also helpful to remove the air filter housing to facilitate access. Remove the top cover then undo the 3 nuts securing the housing to the carb.

    Also if you have starter problems, it relatively easy to overhaul yourself for just a few pounds. I have done this on a 360 and a 340 1.4, and might be soon to do it on a 1.7.

    Go to an electrical motor factor and buy new brushes (£2) and bearing bushes (£2), then dissassemble the motor and do the following.
    1. Dissassemble the actuator coil and grease the sliding shaft to cure any sticking problem, if this fails to cure any sticking problem the actuator will have to be renewed.
    2. Take the commutator assembly and solder in the new brushes.
    3. Using appropriate sized sockets or tubes knock out the old bushes from the housing and install the new ones after soaking overnight in light oil, tapping them in gently.
    4. Take the armature and using a thin screwdriver clean out the gaps between the copper contacts for the commutator (some don't have gaps, but are filled with epoxy or something).
    5. Using some fine wet and dry paper, rub down the armature contact face to remove any scoring and dirt.

    This should be enough to fix most starter problems.
    Alternatively a vehicle electrical service shop will do the job for about £30.

    I remember when I first started driving and my Mum got a 1980 340 (in about 1984) it had alot of starter problems, the dealer replaced the starter (but not the actuator), the ring gear the carb and exhaust valves. Eventually the car started better but it still stuck occassionally requiring the carrying of a hammer.

    All the problems had been caused by the exhaust valves, and had wrecked the starter which was not the later more reliable Hitachi unit. In an effort to fix the sticking the dealer replaced the ring gear (something to do with no earth and teeth missing...utter bullshit) for £70, but the sticking still occoured, eventually I looked at the starter and greased the actuator and solved the problem, but needed regreasing every year or so, I think replacement would have been better as it not really ment to be greased but self lubricating.

    After all that, your now going to tell me you just want to remove it for access to the block or something. Up
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