v v spy.com > volvo 300 questions and answers < your independent volvo source!










This Q&A (Questions&Answers) is made by people from the alt.autos.volvo newsgroup and brickboard.com. If you recognize something you wrote and you feel offended, mail me and I'll remove it or I'll put your name under it. Sometimes I change a sentence but I never change the content.
(Engine part 2) Questions:
Main Q&A
  1. Hi does anyone know fuelinjektor flow rates of volvo 360 gli b200f (kat) engine? injektor number 0 280 150 734


  2. I've taped up the hot air pipe, so hopefully the car won't conk out on the motorway any more...
    But I'm having real problems starting the car, in the cold damp weather we're having at the moment. Well, not actually starting it - but running it for the first fifteen minutes until the engine is really warm.
    It starts fine, but when I try and drive then the engine coughs and splutters and then stops whenever I get to a junction.
    I know it's related to the cold damp weather, but most other cars don't have this problem, so I'm assuming it's fixable. But how?


  3. We driving our Volvo 340 GL (1.7 G-reg) along the motorway on Christmas Day when the car started to 'pull' and lose power. We were in 5-gear doing about 60 - 70 at the time. Then the revs dropped from around 30 to 0 just like that, lifted the accelerator and then reapplied it and up they went to 30 again but the car was still 'pulling'. Happened another twice by which time we had slowed down considerably and dropped to fourth gear. But by this time smoke had started coming out the exhaust and on lifting the foot from the accelerator and reapplying it the third time a loud 'bang' came from the exhaust and the car stalled.
    Got the car started again quite easily and managed to get off the motorway onto a slip road and to safety. Left the engine idling while phoning a relative for advice. Was told "maybe the engine has just misfired and if it is idling fine it might be OK". Obviously it being Christmas Day and as we were on our way to visit relatives we wanted to push on.
    So we started out slowly again, first around the small town we had pulled off the motorway to and then the motorway itself . Things seemed to be OK but after about 10 miles the same happened again. This time the car stalled on a busy roundabout. Panicking I think we may have flooded the engine trying to get it to start again. But whatever the case there was no starting it. So after pushing it onto a verge we phoned the AA.
    They came out a towed us to a nearby depot where we they had a look at it and declared our "carburettor was almost halved in two" and they had tightened it up. But after they had taken the car out for a run every time they hit 60 the same thing happened. This they declared "was an electrical fault and nothing they could do about it as it would have to go to a specialist and would cost hundreds and hundreds of pounds to fix." They advised us to go onto our destination (about 30 miles) or turn back home (about 50 miles) but to keep it under 50 and we would be OK.
    We drove into the nearest town from the depot and it stalled again a few times in low gear. And while we stopped to phone relatives again in the town the smoke started to build up again from the exhaust. So we decided that we should call it a night and left the car overnight in a car park in the town and got picked up by the relatives we were meant to visit.
    Well obviously we had much discussion about the situation with relatives that night and one of them mentioned that they had had a similar problem with a car they had replaced the petrol cap on and been given the wrong year / model by a garage. Horror struck as only a few days previously we had visited a scrap yard to get a second hand petrol cap for the car, as the one the car came with didn't lock / the key had been lost. We had then painted the cap the same colour as our car and fitted it.
    So the next day we returned to the car and replaced the new petrol cap with the old one (which was luckily still in the car). Started up the car (which started first time) and drove round the car park a few times. Car seemed fine. Drove maybe 10 miles out of the town to get lunch (just to test it before we went on the motorway). Fine. Drove back the 10 miles. Fine. Drove (slowly sticking to 50) the 50 miles home and the car seemed fine.
    Now what we would like your advice on is this:
    1. Have we found the problem? Relative says lack of air or the wrong air mixture may have caused fumes to build up causing the explosions from the exhaust and not allowing enough petrol through causing the loss of power
    2. Will this have permanently damaged the carburettor? Will we need a new one? And how much will this cost if we do?
    3. Do you think the AA man may be right about the electrical fault? (we didn't tell him about the petrol cap as we didn't think it was relevant at the time). If it is an electrical fault how much would it cost to fix?


    1. How long do the drive-belts (?) of a '88 340 DL Variomatic last? If the belts are worn-out, do I have to buy Volvo belts or doesn't that matter?
    2. The use of kick-down, is that bad for a car? Or do I have to kick-down my car once in a while? If I kick-down from 80 km/h to 130 km/h - is that bad or doesn't that matter?


  5. I wondered about a different engine in my Volvo 360 GL, (New type, last made I think) and wondered if B23 did fit in easily? If not, was have to be done?


  6. I'm fixing up a 340 1.7 for someone, and was trying to sort a strange embarrasing noise which appeared to be comming from the starter motor. Its like a loud groan and has the following characteristics:
    -lasts for about half a second after the car has started
    -Happens most times but not always
    -Clutch in, gear selection, disconnect breathers and vacuum system makes no difference
    -Happens sometimes even if starting fails, and seems to be after the engine stops.

    It seems like the starter is spinning on or not disengaging properly, but that would be a much more severe noise. The starter solenoid was sticking before and it has had a hard life with some starting problems before, so I overhauled the motor just cleaning and lubricating (I even lubricated the solenoid piston even though its meant to be self lubricating materials), the clutch was a bit stiff and WD40 seemed to loosen it, also there was alot of sooty dirt around and I did my best to get this out of the engaging screw. I also rubbed down the commutaor and brushes which really need replaced. Afterwards the starter performed much better but the broan still persisted.
    The car runs ok otherwise apart from a slighly dodgy tickover, could it be something else other than the starter?


  7. Engine is B172 with aprox 123k miles. Starts immediately when cold using choke, but when having been stopped for more than about quarter of an hour takes quite a lot of turning over (no choke) before firing. It's as if all the fuel had >evaporated from the carb - but that can't be the problem since it starts immediately if left to get cold. Otherwise the engine runs well, except being a little thirsty.


  8. I own a 85 Volvo 340DL with 99.000km's on it. It has been standing for about a week outside without driving it. It worked just fine before. When I got it to start (battery was dead due to freezing weather), and tried to switch it into drive, I fail doing so. It makes a scaring noise, the kind of noise you get when you try putting a regular car in gear without putting enough pressure on the clutch. It won't go into reverse neither. So I can't move the car (at least not the normal way, I can still push it).
    When the engine is not running, it's possible to get it into drive/reverse, but it won't start that way.


  9. I've got a Volvo 340 1.7 GL that has developed a weird and very frustrating problem.

    It will start fine in the morning, run for 15 minutes and then begin to seriously misfire and lose all power (the accelerator pedal can be floored and have no effect). It then stalls and will not restart for about 20 minutes. Then, it starts again and runs without problem. It seems to break down at the same point each day (almost to within 200 metres!)

    We've checked all the obvious electrics: distributor and HT leads are new; plugs are new; fuse box is in good condition and there's plenty of electrical power running through the system the fuel supply is not the problem - the pump is working well, there's an in-line filter just before the carb; the carb is clean and has no blocked jets.

    We thought it may be problem with fuel 'freezing up' in the carb in the mornings and emulsifying and have fitted a pre-heater to the carb + fixed the air flaps so warm air from the manifold blows on to the carb. This has slightly improved the problem, but I think it is masking the real fault.


  10. When I accelerate over plm. 3000 rpm in first or second gear, the warning light for the brakes goes on.(the one with the exclamation mark, anyway), and off again when I change gear. There's plenty of fluid in the little tank, so that's not it. Maybe something is stuck somewhere? The brakes work perfectly, but everytime I put down my foot there is this nagging doubt.Also, it makes my wife nervous.




Answers:
  1. I have received information of fuelinjector flow rate which needed because I am installing a turbo to my 360 gli. If someone else needs the information the flowrate of injector number 0 280 150 734 is 200 cm3/min on 2,5bar fuelpressure (when injektor is fulltime open). Up


  2. Cold running problems are numerous, going back to basics its divided into 2 causes:
    1. Poor spark
    2. Not enough extra fuel or badly atomised
    All petrol cars need good condition high tension parts to survive damp winters. If the leads are old replacing them will have a dramatic effect. Cleaning helps, but once they get old its best to replace. Same goes for the distributor cap and rotor arm.

    A good trick is to let your eyes get accustomed to the dark, and look at the engine in total darkness. Any glowing, or worse, arcing will show up electical 'leaks'. Dirty plugs will glow at the case. leads will sparkle. Sometimes you need to take out the coil and throughly clean it, using white spirit or something. Another tip is to spray a little WD40 into the distributor cap, this helps keep condensation away and protects when driving through deep water. Also make sure the internal lid is inside the distributor.

    Fuel problems are a bit more difficult, but generally its best to make sure its correctly adjusted (like idle and choke dimensions, not just CO%), clean and lubricated. Typical problems are with the breather system, blockages upset the correct adjustment, also openings cause induction air leaks upsetting adjustment and leading to poor idling. Also bent or sticking cables again cause incorrect adjustment to be applied. Ensure any carb work is done by a competent mechanic with good experience with Volvos.

    Also I have to say that the more highly tuned engines (like the 1.4) do not run well when cold generally, losing alot of torque. I'm not exactly sure why, but its one of the things I admire about 360s, you just start the engine and drive the engine, its not difficult to keep running. Up


    • These engines (it's actually a Renault engine) are notorious for air leaks at the carburettor/manifold joint. All Volvo specialists should know about this. The problem is that one of the flanges (on the carb IIRC) can warp due to excess heat and then air gets in. Up
    • The cap, if it was none vented, may well have been the cause, also, the weight of the large air cleaner atop the carb, with no restrainer brackets often works the carb loose on the manifold, and the gasket underneath the carb often splits as a result. It may be worth removing the carb, replacing the gasket using some blue Hylomar sealant, and checking the 4 carb to manifold nuts monthly for tightness. As has been mentioned, sometimes the base of the carb body itself warps, they can be repaired if the warpage is slight by rubbing the carb on coarse wet and dry paper mounted on a sheet of glass, or other hard flat surface. Up
    • There are four common reasons for this on these cars (I have one too).
      1. the little gauze pickup in the fuel tank often gets blocked, remove it and throw it away, and fit an inline filter near the carb.
      2. the three way valve on the front panel leaks air, and stops fuel flowing.
      3. the small rubber hoses connecting the tank sender to the pipes perish and suck air.
      4. (and favourite due to the black smoke), I had this occur on our 1.4 a few years ago, the warm air flap in the air intake can break. This allows only cold air to enter the carb, and in cold or damp weather causes the carb to freeze. This gives the symptoms most like the ones you are experiencing.
      Up


  4. Approx. 50000km. Best is to check for cracks. Small cracks are OK but if they go deep into the belt and/or there are teeth missing they have to be replaced. Note that you must replace both belts to avoid severe vibrations if they differ in length. Might be hard to get aftermarket belts? I know that Roelunds in Denmark can deliver at much better prices than Volvo but you have to order at least 7(?) pairs.

    No harm at all as long as the drivebelts are not worned out. Actually it's good for the engine to get rid of some deposits now and then. I don't think it's possible to overrev a Variomatic car at normal road conditions? At least not with the lighter 55hp DAF with almost identical gear-box.

    The kick-down switch simply cancels upshift vacuum to the front pulleys. But, as there also are centrifugal weights it will shift up anyway at higher rpm:s. I once drove a DAF Malmö-Gothenburg (280km) with constant kick-down due to a vacuum leak without any harm.

    What you should not do though, is to use the kick down with the green "low gear" switch activated. Up


  5. I don't see why not, but I've never done it (yet) but have thought about it. What would be really interesting would be something more exotic like a turbo or 16v. The normal 740 or 940 turbo might not fit well as the turbo sticks out alot and may interfere with the chassis, and the 16v may also need a special exhaust manifold. Also if you have power steering it might make a custom exhaust even more tricky.

    Bear in mind that the rear axle is already under stress from the 2 litre engine, increasing power will worsen this bending the axle more.

    If you want more power, the older engines (in the UK at least) use higher compression and require higher octane fuel giving more torque and feel much quicker. Up


  6. Seems the PINION retracting a little slowly after start.
    Or you may need to add or subtract some shims.

    reply: From where? There where shims at the commutator end. I'll check the manual for endfloats etc

    reply: Normally, shims are used to get the pinion ending up closer or further to the (gears on) the flywheel. Or to align their shaft/axle parallel to each other. Up


  7. Where do you start with these engines? To be frank I hate them.

    If the engine runs ok after being warm for some time its probably not the distributor cam oil seal spraying into the distributor. That gets worse as the engine warms up, but then become difficult to start.

    If this happen in the winter then its not likely to be evapouration in the manifold.

    During the fauilt condition, detach a plug lead with a bit of metal stuck in it near the engine, try to start the car and see if there are any sparks. The gap should be less than 1cm or so. If there are no sparks or they seem weak (compared to after starting) it maybe the coil, remove it and clean all round it, if that doesn't work try a replacement coil from a good car (any post 84 300 series). You'll need a torx screwdriver to remove the coil.

    Remove the air filter and look down the barrel while you pump the throttle linkage, you should see fuel being squirted out, if so then there is fuel in the float chamber. If not then the fuel level is not being maintained or is leaking out.

    It could be simple adjustments, you say its a little thirsty, but thats a relative statement. Rich mixture can cause poor economy and bad starting, get it checked on a proper anayser. I consider 1.7s to be economical (but not reliable) compared to 360s. All things considered I think mixture is the most likely, but it could be a sticking choke lever, as the front gets very dirty, I've had MOT emmissions test refused (Gov't test only here) twice because of high idle. Check the choke is fully open when the control is closed, by looking down the barrel and pull the end of the cable at the carb, it shouldn't move. Up


  8. If this only happens above 1000 rpm you have a faulty vacuum servo clutch release unit.

    If also below 1000 rpm you have a mechanical jam in the clutch. It is a centrifugal clutch with weights that forces the plates together as engine rpm increases.

    Maybe you could try to make it loose by using the starter? First disconnect the ignition coil. Put the car in gear, apply brakes and have someone run the starter by feeding the solenoid directly. If your handbrake is good working you can off course try it on you own too. But this is a typical situation when you risk running over your own foot! Up


  9. This is a very familiar one, certainly the carb icing could have been the cause but normally it only happens on very cold mornings and motorway driving, a more common problem on these engines is the rear cam oil seal, which definately causes the above problem. Its usually reported as stalling when power applied at junctions, a typical ignition problem symptom. Its caused by oil mist leaking into the cap, after it warms up a bit.

    Test method for the cam oil seal, Remove the dist cap just after the fault has occoured and look inside, if its wet atall touch it with you finger and taste it. If it tastes really bad its oil and the oil seal, otherwise sweet will indicate water (due to the antifreeze).

    Repair method:
    Its usually caused by mechanics who work on the head and install seal in as far as it will go, when the manual says flush. Unfortunately the manual is wrong and the distributor cap insulator plate will not fit then, so I use this plate to tap in the seal only as far as is necessary thus avoiding any wear lip on the cam shaft.
    To start from the beginning, remove the distributor, valve cover and end cam bearing cap, then the seal. Put the end bearing cap back on (carefully cleaning the mating surfaces), and install a new seal flush with the surface. Then using the distributor insulator plate tape the seal in as far as is necessary to allow the plate to fit properly, make sure its even all the way round, the plate shouldn't wobble. Then reassemble everything else as normal.

    I had this problem on a car for 2 years, but it wasn't really being driven (belonged to someone else), and despite doing everything you say, + replacing the oil seal it refused to completely eliminate, although many improvements were seen. Eventually I stripped down the head, took out the cam, intending to replace it, when I couldn't find an economical source for a cam without a wear lip in it (machined or scrap), I put it back together and reading the manual noticed this flush bit and twigged the problem. After doing this the car is now fault free (of that fault anyway).

    Anyway, many people have reported these symptoms on the newsgroup, and I have replied to them with this info (at least 6, and using some guess work that means alot of 1.7s are affected). So far noone has confirmed this was the solution, perhaps because of the need for partial head dissassembly, please do this check and let me know the result. Although I think Chris said he had the same problem on his 480. I have also seen an oily cap pictured in a magazine from a 240 / 740 with the dist at the end of the head (it was a side pointing lead cap), so this design is pretty dodgy. Up


  10. There are 2 possibilities:
    1. The indicator circuit is faulty, a loose connection most likely
    2. The fluid is just a little low. If its not at the top mark hard acceleration will cause the fluid to slope back in the resevoir, its not a problem, but top it up anyway.

    I guess you're in Netherlands, I don't know if you guys got the high compression version of the GLS (requires 98 octane petrol). I'm driving my partners 85 UK version at the moment, and it is seriously fast, maybe faster than my unleaded 87 GLT, its no wonder the brake fluid slopes back.

    If you can't find the fault don't worry too much, the indicator is only a level indicator and if you have confirmed that is ok visually then the light does not indicate any other fault.
    Fluid levels will drop as the pads wear and the pistons get further out of the calipers, but if the level is dropping more quickly it could indicate a leak, usually the rear wheel cylinders need replacing in this age of car (very cheap). Up
1998-2005 vvspy.com [ advertise on vvspy.com | legal notice | contact vvspy.com ] 04.Jul.2008 01:28